‘Who doesn’t love a nugget?’ How the fast food favourite got posh

We’ve come a long way from the humble Chicken McNugget, with high-end restaurants serving their own versions using cod cheeks, salt beef and even trotters. But why have they become so popular?

At the Suffolk restaurant in ​​Aldeburgh, nuggets are made from cod cheeks and served with a curried tartare sauce and seaweed salt. At the Spread Eagle in Wandsworth, London, Pitchfork cheddar nuggets come resting on a bed of warm onion chutney, with a side of saffron mayo. And, at the White Hart in Welwyn, confit chicken nuggets are drizzled with truffle mayo – “the boujiest chicken nuggs I ever did see”, as one commenter on the restaurant’s Instagram put it. More than a decade since Jamie Oliver did his best to dissuade the nation’s children from eating ultra-processed beige bites, nuggets – chicken or otherwise – are back on the menu, upgraded from fast-food favourite to restaurant-worthy fare.

“It’s our biggest-selling starter,” says James Jay, head chef at the Suffolk. “I think around one in six order it.” His nuggets sit alongside white-tablecloth classics such as lobster bisque, steak tartare and scallops – so what is the appeal of the seemingly simple dish? “It’s memory-evoking comfort food and there’s a playful element,” he says. “Ours is actually a play on words: ‘cod’s cheek-in-nugget’.”

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from The Guardian https://ift.tt/a7tKrnq

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